To use a bump key, the "pull-back" method is common. With this method, the key is inserted all the way in, and then pulled back out one notch. While keeping rotational pressure on the key, it is then bumped into the keyway with the heel of the hand or with a device of some sort. The "bumper" needs to bump the key hard enough to jar the pins, but not so much that the lock or key is damaged.
Bumping the key causes the pins to jump slightly. Even this slight amount of motion is enough to allow the bump key to turn the cylinder, unlocking the lock. The image above-left shows the condition just before the key is bumped. The image above-right is just after the key has been bumped. The driver pins in blue have bounced above the shear line, while the key pins in red are still below the shear line. As long as the shear line is unblocked, the cylinder can turn and the lock will open.
Another method for using a bump key, called "minimal movement," is slightly more sophisticated than the pull-back method. Bump-key performance can be improved by filing away an additional 0. The success of the bumper depends on practice. Very little skill is required, and the learning curve is short.
Success will also vary with the type of lock and quality of the key. Bumping tends to work better on more expensive locks, since the hard, high-quality parts work more smoothly.
They can be difficult to remove. You can sometimes spot a lock that has been opened with a bump key if you see a small indentation just above the keyway. Some older, softer locks will have dents even though they have not been bumped. Owning or possessing a bump key is not currently illegal, and bump key sets, and videos on how to use them, are available online.
At least two companies, Schlage and Baldwin, make locksets designed to defeat bump keys. Bump keys are usually associated with lockpicking and burglary, but this how-to is strictly for legal purposes. Only open doors legally, and store your bump key in a safe place. Then, use a permanent marker to trace the real key onto the blank one.
Next, place the bump key in a bench vice and use a metal file to grind the grooves into the key. Finally, file the shoulder of the key into a flat line so you can push the bump key into the lock as far as you need to. To learn more, like how to test your bump key using a hammer and rubber spacers, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue.
No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Purchase a blank key that matches the model of the lock you're picking. If you're trying to make a bump key for a Kwikset lock, you'll need a blank Kwikset key.
There are some people making bump keys without original keys as guides. To do so, you need an electronic caliper capable of measuring the distance between pins in the lock -- a complicated maneuver reserved usually for burglars without access to an original.
Review the basic vocabulary of keys before moving forward, especially if you are new to lock-picking. This how-to will use certain terms and phrases to refer to parts of the key. Knowing the simple terms will help you make a more effective key. Length : the length of the key from its tip to the end; the longest measurement of the key. Groove : a dip or indentation in the serrated edge of the key. Each groove is next to at least one peak.
Peak : a tooth in the serrated edge of the knife. Peaks can be steep or flat, but jut outwards from the body of the key. Each peak is next to at least one groove. Maximum depth : the length of the deepest groove on the key. The deepest groove should never cross the track. Track : the narrow indentation along the key's length. Different keys have differently sized tracks.
The track falls roughly in the middle of the key length-wise. Shoulder : when the key is inserted, the shoulder sits at the top and right outside the lock's entrance. The shoulder stops the key from being inserted too far into the lock.
Use a fine permanent marker to trace your real key onto the blank one. You need to know where each groove is along the length of the key, as well as the maximum depth that any groove has on the key.
Lay your real key over your blank key. The only difference between the two is that the real key is serrated where the blank key, your bump key, is not. You only have to trace that serrated edge. Stick the blank key in a bench vice. Place the key so that the track and bottom are in the vice and the top sticks out.
You will need to file the key into the shape you've outlined. You can set the original key aside. If you do not have a bench vice, find another way to hold your key securely while filing it down.
You must be able to file down to an accurate depth, so having it somewhere it can't move is crucial. Use your file to craft the bump key into a rough approximation of the original.
Use the file, keeping the peaks in place. Your biggest goal is to never go lower than the maximum depth of the original. Just get the key into the rough shape of the original so you can fine-tune it into a bump key. Part 2. Use a metal, triangular or taper file to grind the grooves into the bump key.
In my case, it was a set of Toyota keys I lost so therefore I got a blank key that fits Toyota trucks from the local Walmart and got to work. Notice I have different kinds of files I got them at a harbor freight tools but you can get them many places Ace Hardware and much more. Remember the key doesn't have to be perfect as long as it is somewhat similar as the image on Google you want to thin the key out so it's not as thick as when it was new and start putting the notches.
It takes a little practice and sometimes a little time so don't get discouraged if its taking you a while or if you can't get it to work because you will eventually open it with patience. Remember to jiggle jiggle jiggle and don't break the key in the ignition!! For anyone that reads this, don't expect this method to start a newer vehicle that has anti-theft. You may get lucky enough to get the door open, but most cars in the US that are less than 15 years old have a RFID chip embedded in the head of the key.
Those vehicles have to be programmed to recognize that RFID before it will start the engine.
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